This resin is based on our advanced TUFF™ formulation, giving the same incredible high tensile strength. Still, it boasts non-yellowing properties that allow for a high level of clarity through the printed model.
What is TUFF™ Crystal Clear?
- Ensure surfaces and perfectly leveled. The smallest of tilt on the build plate can allow the corners of the model/raft curl off the plate.
- Ensure the build plate is clean and free of dust or parts of a previous model.
- Ensure the vat has zero resin around the edge from a previous coloured resin. This can mix with Crystal Clear and taint the clarity of the model.
- Shake the bottle for at least 30sec for 1.25l bottles and 1min for 5l bottles.
- When pouring into the vat you will notice very small bubbles suspended in the resin. Please allow about 20min for these to raise to the surface and then use a heat source (small butane torch or heat gun) to quickly pass over the surface to remove all surface bubbles.
- On monochrome LCD based printers with short exposure times start by adding 1sec on top of the Rapid / Tuff normal layer times you would normally use. This could end up being about 18s-22s x 4 base layers and then 2-3s normal layers.
- On RGB LCD based printers add about 2s to the regular layer cure times. Typically 60s x 4 base layers and then 6-7s normal layers.
- If your printer supports reducing the power of the UV LED array try setting the power to 50%. Low and Slow will help prevent any yellowing of the model
- Use a calibration model to help dial in the perfect base and normal exposure times (https://monocure3d.com/pages/calibration-models)
- After the model has finished printing, clean the model in either Resinaway or IPA for no more that 5min (scrub by had with a soft brush and/or use an ultrasonic cleaner). Try to get into all the smallest of crevices. Follow up with a quick rinse under running water and then dry the model thoroughly with compressed air. This then allows you to see if there is any residual uncured resin on the model. If you see any, follow up with a small squirt of IPA, soak 1min and then blow the IPA off the model to see if the surface is then nice and clean.
- Once you are 100% convinced the model has zero uncured resin on the surface please use a low powered 405nm only UV light source (10-20W) and post cure for no more than 10min. If you do not have a low powered UV light source you can place the model in the shade (NO direct sunlight) and let it cure for 10-30min.
- If you notice any yellowing of the model, don’t worry, the yellowing will fade over a week or two back to a perfectly neutral clear. If you don’t want the model to go yellow in the sun, spray the post cured model with a UV blocking clear coat.
- To achieve a glassy surface, if the model has a lot of large flat areas you could just sand and polish it OR if the model has a complex surface just coat with a clear gloss acrylic spray paint (avoid drips).
Do's and Don'ts
- Always shake the bottle before pouring from it.
- Always make sure the printer build surface is perfectly level.
- Always make sure there is no coloured/white/gray resin left in the vat.
- Always use a 405nm UV post curing light source less than 20W. Low and Slow.
- Always ensure the surface of the model is 100% clear of uncured resin before curing.
- Don’t post cure in a strong UV light source, particularly the sun.
- Don’t use a curing station that uses anything but 405nm LED’s.
- Don’t mix Crystal Clear with any other resins unless you want to change the colour of the model.
- Don’t leave any cleaning fluids on the surface when curing.